Rothenburg ob der Tauber
June 23, 2008Rothenburg ob der Tauber is Germany’s medieval fantasy town. Catering today mostly to tourists, the city has a pretty interesting history. I spent this past weekend exploring that during a quick two day trip.
This colorful history begins around 1200. Rothenburg was one of the largest cities in the Holy Roman Empire at this time and one of the few free imperial cities of the empire, governing itself but ruled by the empreror directly. During the 30 years war Rothenburg, although completely walled and fortified, suffered heavily.
It was occupied several times during the war, most notably by Count Tilly, and afterward suffered plague. These events cost the city most of its wealth and destroyed most of the economy in the surrounding area. Rothenburg’s wonderfully preserved modern state is largely to thank for this, as the city was no longer able to grow.
During the Second World War Rothenburg was bombed destroying much of the newer portions of the city and about 45% of the wall. A final bombardment and attack was avoided, sparing the rest of the historic town.
I did some site seeing in the city and as usual a lot of walking. Highlights were climbing the Rathaus, seeing the carving in St. Jakobs Kirche, and a sweet walk through the Tauber river valley. We found a real relaxed beer garden down by the river basically run off someone’s porch and situated in their backyard. I could see spending a lot of time there!
The Night Watchman of Rothenburg tour was one that was unfortunately a better idea to skip. I’d heard great reviews, but on weekends at least Rothenburg is swamped with tourists. The town receives about 2.5 million visitors annually and there may have but upwards of 100 people attending his walking tour. The city was gorgeous and fun to visit regardless. A nice escape to some hills and something a little greener than Munich.